Bangladesh is a beautiful country but there really aren't that many sites to be seen. Traveling here is about experiencing the place; especially the people. I know I've mentioned it before, but the people of Bangladesh are unlike any others we've met. I thought I'd take a minute to tell the story of some of the many new friends we've made, as each has provided a unique perspective on the country.
With the hartels and transportation blockades our travel options became very limited. Fortunately, the waterways were still viable and we were able to board the historic Rocket Steamer (a British era paddle wheel boat). We booked a first class cabin which was really nice (by Bangladesh standards) for our overnight voyage. We were the only foreigners on the boat and the majority of travelers road on the lower deck claiming a small piece of floor as their bed for the night.
On the first class deck we met a young guy named Rasel. A native Bangladeshi, he had been living in London going to college for the last five years and was returning home for the first time since. We could tell Rasel was struggling to reconcile his very typical western life (much of which he had to hide from his family) with his traditional Muslim upbringing and his home country that he was thrown back into after so many years. We talked for a long time about the vast cultural differences between Bangladesh and the west and the challenges that each bring. He, like several others we met, explained how wealthy Bangladesh families strive to send their children abroad for school as it is seen as the best opportunity, and the trades offs that come with that. Like many of our new friends Rasel was very concerned for us, so we exchanged cell phone numbers and promised to call when we safely reached our destination.
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| Rasel (in the doorway) and two people he happened to know |
Al Amin
After arriving in Barisol on the Rocket Steamer we met with our local guide Antu who would be taking us around Barisol and then to the rural village of Sener Hat where we would stay with a local family. This homestay turned out to be our favorite of any yet. In the village we met Al Amin a young guy (about 21) who would host us at his family's home. Al Amin has spent a lot of time teaching himself English and was able to converse with us fairly easily.
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| Al Amin in the middle with his family |
Of all the people we've met, Al Amin stands out the most. He is an incredibly genuine, kind, and innocent individual. He lived in a very basic home with his brother and parents in a poor village. He apologized multiple times for the accommodations and food he and his family had to offered, and we did our best to reassure him that we were quite comfortable and enjoying our stay. He had several foreigners stay with him in the past, but told us that our visit gave him much pleasure and that he considered us extra friendly and special. Sometimes it was a little over the top, he treated us like such royalty and we felt like we didn't really deserve his constant praises. He was a great host and excitedly showed us around the village.
Our conversations with Al Amin often got very deep very quickly and it's hard to accurately describe our interactions as they were very unique. He spoke about the state of his village very frankly. Basically, due to corruption and poverty there is very little opportunity for a good job in this area no matter how intelligent and educated one might be. Despite this, he didn't seem jaded, but his demeanor was not exactly hopeful either. His goal is to become as educated as possible, but he does not connect this education to opportunity and he showed little interest in acquiring money or getting a career. As he repeatedly told us, he is much more interested in being a good man and was incredibly genuine about this.
Al Amin is a very special person and acts much older and wiser than his years. I think with a fair playing field he would achieve great things. But unlike most Americans, he seemed very content with the hand he was dealt in life and his place in the world. The one thing that seemed to trouble him, was that he had very poor English books and teachers in his school and was not able to learn all that he wanted to. We promised that we would do our best to help with this and will be collecting English books to send back to him once we return to the states.
Jack
Before we had left to Barisol, we met Jack on the streets of Dhaka city. He came up and approached us as many others had done. He spoke very good English and almost instantly invited us to his village to spend Christmas. As many Bangladeshi do, he asked our religion. We told him Christian and he excitedly explained that he was as well. He then began to tell us all about the work he was doing to help a group of children living in the slums. He spent about an hour with us showing us a local park and helping Derrick find a salon to get a hair cut. We exchanged numbers and told him we would like to visit his village if the hartal ended (which they didn't).
When we returned again to Dhaka City we called up Jack. We explained that a village visit would not be possible, but we'd like to see the work he is doing in Dhaka. He was happy to meet us the next morning. He arrived at our hotel and we took a CNG out to Uttara an upscale neighborhood near the airport. Between the railroad tracks and a nice apartment building was squeezed a small slum housing about 100 people in makeshift homes. Jack showed us around and a slew of about 20 children began to appear. He explained that he visits each day and brings the children things like snacks, candy and soap. He showed us an empty room with a small blackboard where he teaches the children when he visits. These children cannot afford to go to a proper school so Jack is the main education they receive. In the future, Jack hopes to rent a room in one of the nearby buildings to use as a school and church. This is not Jack's job, just his passion. For his career he works with an NGO that also helps children.
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| Jack, Derrick, and some of the kids |
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| The make shift homes |
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| Jack's school room and his kids |
Bashir
When visiting Lalbagh Fort in Dhaka city we met a first year Dhaka University student named Bashir. Bashir is studying tourism and was very excited to meet us and show us around. After touring the area we sat in the grass and chatted with him and his five roommates (and about 30 other people who gathered to watch the foreigners). A few days later we met again to tour Dhaka University with him. Bashir, like many of the Dhaka University students, is very proud of his country, his history, and his University. He was much more optimistic and hopeful for the future than other Bangladeshi students. One of his friends who also joined us was a political science major. We talked briefly about the corruption in the Bangladesh political system (its pretty intense). He didn't seem phased by it, and told us that they need good smart people to get involved to improve it. These students definitely represented the optimism and youthfulness that we experienced in many places throughout Bangladesh.
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| Us and Bashir's roommates (he was taking the photo) |
Usually when traveling, I feel very compelled to tell the stories of the places we visit and give an overview of each destination. In Bangladesh, this seems less fitting, as it is the people who make this place what it is. It hasn't been easy traveling here. The country lacks the infrastructure of others and the poverty is ever apparent. It's not the most comfortable place either; noisy, dirty, crowded. Not to mention the crazy political situation that forced us to abandon all of our original plans. However, there is something special about Bangladesh, something that will stick with us for a long time.
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