Nature, animal sacrafices and new friends in Kolkata

After our trip to Shrimongol we returned to Dhaka and booked a flight to Kolkata. Our plan was to tour the Sunderbans, the world's largest magrove forest on the border of India and Bangladesh and then spend a few days enjoying the city. We had hoped to visit the Sunderbans from Bangladesh (where it remains a little more wild) but that just wasn't possible. So we landed in Kolkata and headed out the next morning on our trip.

We were on a three day tour with a British mother son pair, one other American, and a group of Indian Americans who were originally from Kolkata. The tour company owned a small ecolodge in a rural village just outside the Sunderbans. It required 1 jeep ride, 2 boat ferries, and 1 rickshaw ride to reach. It was a nice place along the river, very quite.

That afternoon we walked around the village to take in the sights; mostly the village wide cock fight. Yep, the sport where men take their roosters, tie large blades on their feet and pit them against each other. It was a little shocking at first, but interesting none-the-less. After this we took a short boat ride at sunset and then returned to the lodge for a yummy dinner. After dinner, there was Indian folk music and dancing. Even Derrick joined in!

The next morning we boarded a larger boat for the day to tour the actual Sunderban protected area. This region is composed of lots of small islands with river ways snaking in between. It is a backwater where the rivers meet the ocean and the water level changes throughout the day with the tides. Along our ride we saw giant crocodiles, a crazy looking river dolphin, lots of cool birds, a monitor lizard, and spotted deer. Although it's home to the endangered Royal Bengal Tiger we did not spot any. It was a very relaxing day just hanging out on the boat chatting with the other travelers (something we did very little of in Bangladesh).

The next day we headed back to Kolkata to begin checking out the city sites. There were some interesting old buildings from the British era and several historic temples. The morning of our second day we visited the Kalighat Temple a famous temple dedicated to the goddess Kali which was a little on the overwhelming side to say the least. Some temples in India are very serene and meditative, this one was just plain chaotic. First, you have to go through a maze of venders just to get near the temple, then you have to find the actual entrance through the hoards of people trying to mislead you and take you to their shop and the many beggars. Once inside it is jammed pack with people all trying to make their way to the inner temple area. Then there are the many men who try to give you an impromptu tour of the building which will then result in them asking you for money. Oh and lastly, you have to watch out for the blood and goat heads left over from the mornings ritual sacrifice. It was quite an experience.

Our favorite part of Kolkata was later that evening. The Indian couple from America that we met on the Sunderbans invited us over to stay with them and have dinner. They have a nice home on the outskirts of Kolkata and several of their friends also came over to join. We had great fun chatting with everyone and learning more about Indian culture and life in Kolkata. And the food was amazing! By far one of our best meals of the trip. It was so nice to be with a family and stay in an actual home instead of a hotel. I hope we can return one day and see everyone again. All in all we had a great time in Kolkata. I have lots of pictures to share but unfortunately this computer can't handle uploading them so you will have to wait. 

Srimongal: Natural Rockstars

We were very lucky to be able to travel to Srimongal

Srimongal: The Greenleaf Guesthouse

We jumped on a train from Dhaka and arrived at Srimongal very late around 11:30PM and were met by Sam the owner of the Greenleaf Guesthouse. Out of all the Bangladesh places we stayed, Greenleaf was our favorite place to stay. Greenleaf has excellent facilities and was very comfortable. The best part of Greenleaf was the helpful staff. Sam was extremely accommodating helping us out with anything we needed. One night I was craving some chocolate cake so Sam took it upon himself to find us some sweets. He jumped on his motorcycle and searched all around town. Sadly, he was unable to locate chocolate cake but did find some birthday cake that he brought back and we enjoyed together.

Day 1 - Tea Plantation; Birdwatching

Srimongal is exceptionally different than Dhaka city. It is famous for being a tea plantation, gateway to a nearby national park and just a chill place to hang out. In Srimongal we visited the nearby Lawachara Forest. We hired a guide one day and hiked for hours through the forest seeing monkeys, huge spiders, insects and enjoying the serenity of nature. We went to a bird watchtower and saw thousands of migratory birds. Liz really enjoyed looking through a scope and enjoyed hours of birdwatching. 

Sun rays in the jungle

Shrimongol's famous seven layer tea

 Day 2 - Bike Riding / Paparatzi

Our final day in Srimongal we hired bicycles to ride around the town to the nearby tea plantations and national park. We rode for a few miles and were enjoying the scenery The day we rented bikes happened to be the Bangladesh Liberation day and there were hundreds of Bangladesh tourists also driving through the park that day. This meant that we were very popular. Cars started pulling off the side of the road and someone would ask us if they could take our picture. This happened again and again to the point that we could only ride for a few minutes without someone pulling off the side of the road and asking for a picture. We finally managed to escape the paparazzi by going into the tea fields near the road. Earlier one of the families that took our picture really wanted to escort us back to Srimongal because they warned us that it was not safe. We did feel safe but were a little wary sitting by ourselves in the tea bushes admiring the scenery. After talking for awhile, we heard someone approaching. I jumped up and instantly saw a man with a giant curved knife. I was concerned for one second and thought we might be getting robbed but noticed that the man was just as surprised to see me. It turned out he was a tea plant trimmer and he went on his merry way after a quick hello. We made it back to town without incident and had a great time sharing the story with a few other travelers we met on the road that evening. In all it was a great day.

Liz, her bike, and tea

Bangladesh: Poor in money, rich in people

Bangladesh is a beautiful country but there really aren't that many sites to be seen. Traveling here is about experiencing the place; especially the people. I know I've mentioned it before, but the people of Bangladesh are unlike any others we've met. I thought I'd take a minute to tell the story of some of the many new friends we've made, as each has provided a unique perspective on the country.

Rasel 
With the hartels and transportation blockades our travel options became very limited. Fortunately, the waterways were still viable and we were able to board the historic Rocket Steamer (a British era paddle wheel boat). We booked a first class cabin which was really nice (by Bangladesh standards) for our overnight voyage. We were the only foreigners on the boat and the majority of travelers road on the lower deck claiming a small piece of floor as their bed for the night.

Call to prayer and sunset as we wait for the Rocket Steamer to depart

The lower deck where most people pack in

On the first class deck we met a young guy named Rasel. A native Bangladeshi, he had been living in London going to college for the last five years and was returning home for the first time since. We could tell Rasel was struggling to reconcile his very typical western life (much of which he had to hide from his family) with his traditional Muslim upbringing and his home country that he was thrown back into after so many years. We talked for a long time about the vast cultural differences between Bangladesh and the west and the challenges that each bring. He, like several others we met, explained how wealthy Bangladesh families strive to send their children abroad for school as it is seen as the best opportunity, and the trades offs that come with that. Like many of our new friends Rasel was very concerned for us, so we exchanged cell phone numbers and promised to call when we safely reached our destination. 

Rasel (in the doorway) and two people he happened to know

Al Amin 
After arriving in Barisol on the Rocket Steamer we met with our local guide Antu who would be taking us around Barisol and then to the rural village of Sener Hat where we would stay with a local family. This homestay turned out to be our favorite of any yet. In the village we met Al Amin a young guy (about 21) who would host us at his family's home. Al Amin has spent a lot of time teaching himself English and was able to converse with us fairly easily.

Al Amin in the middle with his family

Of all the people we've met, Al Amin stands out the most. He is an incredibly genuine, kind, and innocent individual. He lived in a very basic home with his brother and parents in a poor village. He apologized multiple times for the accommodations and food he and his family had to offered, and we did our best to reassure him that we were quite comfortable and enjoying our stay. He had several foreigners stay with him in the past, but told us that our visit gave him much pleasure and that he considered us extra friendly and special. Sometimes it was a little over the top, he treated us like such royalty and we felt like we didn't really deserve his constant praises. He was a great host and excitedly showed us around the village.

Our conversations with Al Amin often got very deep very quickly and it's hard to accurately describe our interactions as they were very unique. He spoke about the state of his village very frankly. Basically, due to corruption and poverty there is very little opportunity for a good job in this area no matter how intelligent and educated one might be. Despite this, he didn't seem jaded, but his demeanor was not exactly hopeful either. His goal is to become as educated as possible, but he does not connect this education to opportunity and he showed little interest in acquiring money or getting a career. As he repeatedly told us, he is much more interested in being a good man and was incredibly genuine about this.

Al Amin is a very special person and acts much older and wiser than his years. I think with a fair playing field he would achieve great things. But unlike most Americans, he seemed very content with the hand he was dealt in life and his place in the world. The one thing that seemed to trouble him, was that he had very poor English books and teachers in his school and was not able to learn all that he wanted to. We promised that we would do our best to help with this and will be collecting English books to send back to him once we return to the states.

Jack 
Before we had left to Barisol, we met Jack on the streets of Dhaka city. He came up and approached us as many others had done. He spoke very good English and almost instantly invited us to his village to spend Christmas. As many Bangladeshi do, he asked our religion. We told him Christian and he excitedly explained that he was as well. He then began to tell us all about the work he was doing to help a group of children living in the slums. He spent about an hour with us showing us a local park and helping Derrick find a salon to get a hair cut. We exchanged numbers and told him we would like to visit his village if the hartal ended (which they didn't).

When we returned again to Dhaka City we called up Jack. We explained that a village visit would not be possible, but we'd like to see the work he is doing in Dhaka. He was happy to meet us the next morning. He arrived at our hotel and we took a CNG out to Uttara an upscale neighborhood near the airport. Between the railroad tracks and a nice apartment building was squeezed a small slum housing about 100 people in makeshift homes. Jack showed us around and a slew of about 20 children began to appear. He explained that he visits each day and brings the children things like snacks, candy and soap. He showed us an empty room with a small blackboard where he teaches the children when he visits. These children cannot afford to go to a proper school so Jack is the main education they receive. In the future, Jack hopes to rent a room in one of the nearby buildings to use as a school and church. This is not Jack's job, just his passion. For his career he works with an NGO that also helps children.

Jack, Derrick, and some of the kids

The make shift homes

Jack's school room and his kids

Bashir 
When visiting Lalbagh Fort in Dhaka city we met a first year Dhaka University student named Bashir. Bashir is studying tourism and was very excited to meet us and show us around. After touring the area we sat in the grass and chatted with him and his five roommates (and about 30 other people who gathered to watch the foreigners). A few days later we met again to tour Dhaka University with him. Bashir, like many of the Dhaka University students, is very proud of his country, his history, and his University. He was much more optimistic and hopeful for the future than other Bangladeshi students. One of his friends who also joined us was a political science major. We talked briefly about the corruption in the Bangladesh political system (its pretty intense). He didn't seem phased by it, and told us that they need good smart people to get involved to improve it. These students definitely represented the optimism and youthfulness that we experienced in many places throughout Bangladesh.

Us and Bashir's roommates (he was taking the photo)

Usually when traveling, I feel very compelled to tell the stories of the places we visit and give an overview of each destination. In Bangladesh, this seems less fitting, as it is the people who make this place what it is. It hasn't been easy traveling here. The country lacks the infrastructure of others and the poverty is ever apparent. It's not the most comfortable place either; noisy, dirty, crowded. Not to mention the crazy political situation that forced us to abandon all of our original plans. However, there is something special about Bangladesh, something that will stick with us for a long time.

Foreigners are not available here

We just returned from several days in the Barisol district where we did a homestay at a local village. During this time we reached a whole new level of rock star status. Everywhere we went we were followed by crowds. The most common thing we heard was "your visit gives us much pleasure, foreigners are not available here." We met many very wonderful people especially our local host Al-Amin. It was nice to get to speak with the rural villagers and hear about their lives. I could write pages about this experience, but for now I will just post photos from the trip thus far.

Dhaka University students who befriended us

One of the many river confluences

Waterway through Barisol

Snake Charmer camp (kind of like Gypsy)

Derrick playing badminton at Barisol College

Black smith in one of the villages

Fish at the market

The village potter

Hindu temple in the village

My new group of friends at the tea stall

Village tailor who is also a very good musician

Derrick hoping this bridge will support him (it did)

Village family boiling rick to remove husks

Little boy showing off his skills with a top

Man in the village getting ready to plow his field

Men digging a new pond in the village

The family we stayed with in the village

Derrick attempting to be a rickshaw puller

Another family we met who invited us in for tea

Bangladesh: First Impressions

We have now been in Bangladesh for about 4 days, although it feels like much longer. It's been an interesting experience so far. First off, the country is in the midst of a messy political situation due to their upcoming elections and the opposition party has been calling for nationwide transportation blockades which basically shut down transportation between cities. There have been a few scattered acts of violence across the country, but most are conflicts between protesters and police. Despite this we feel very safe and are enjoying our time here.

This country is unlike any place we've traveled and it's hard to describe, but I will do my best. Here are the things we have learned so far about Bangladesh.

1. We are incredibly intriguing to the Bangladesh people. This might be an understatement. Every where we go people stop and just stare for minutes at a time. They circle around us and just watch. If we pull out a piece of paper or any item for that matter everyone moves in close to see what we have. Once one person talks to us the crowd gets even bigger. The bold in the group will say "hello" and ask us "your country?" to which we respond "America." We are then greeted with nods or "good country."

The people also love to take our photo. Many times candidly, but often blatantly. Some times they ask first. One man came up to us and asked if his daughter could take our photo and explained we were the first foreigners she had ever seen. It gets a little crazy at times.

2. We might actually have more friends in Bangladesh than in America by the end of this trip. Within the last 4 days we have met more people who have wanted to talk to us, show us around, give us their number, take us to their village, and in general just be our friend than all the places we've traveled combined. If someone speaks English, they will find us and talk to us.

The conversation usually goes something like this:
Them: "Hello, my name is ______, what is your name"
Us: "Derrick, Liz"
Them: "Where are you from?"
Us: "America"
Them: "We be friends?" *handshake
Us: "Yes"
Them: "Thank you, goodbye"

3. The Bangladesh people are very concerned for our well being. Everywhere we go we are shepherded around by local people. For example, last night we needed to board a ferry. About every five steps someone new would yell out the name of our boat and point or usher us along. Those who speak English are especially concerned. They will often give us their number and insist we call them if we need anything. The crazy thing about all of this is everyone is incredibly genuine. The people here really want to make sure we are ok.

4. Practically no one tries to take advantage of tourist. In most countries we've traveled, when someone approaches you and offers to show you around, they are usually trying to make some money. In Bangladesh, people will literally spend their whole day being our impromptu tour guide and expect nothing in return. We even had a CNG (little taxi, like a tuk tuk) driver who decided to show us around and when we asked how much, he told us to choose. Occasionally when we ask the CNG and rickshaw drivers how much a ride costs they'll give us a very high price. Then we say no and give a fair price which they then accept after a few seconds of deliberation. It's the easiest bargaining ever.

5. Traveling as a woman is very different here. This one I'm still figuring out, but I will say it's definitely different here. More so then anywhere I've traveled, I get ignored. Everyone we've met who speaks English is a man, and most of them speak directly to Derrick and never to me. There have been a few exceptions, mainly younger guys (often college students) who talk to me as well. We even get this from people in the tourism industry. Like today, we had a guide showing us around and he would constantly ask "Mr. Derrick, is everything ok" and "how is it Mr. Derrick." I don't think he once used my name. It gets a little frustrating, but that is the culture.

For a Muslim nation, Bangladesh is more progressive and open than some. We do see women who wear full covering veils, but most only a head cover and plenty with no covering at all. Many people ask us our religion, but it seems to be more a question about our culture than an anything else. No one has expressed any kind of judgement or concern that we are not Muslim. The other very noticeable thing is that alcohol is mostly banned in the country. Oh, and we have also had many discussions with locals about marriage. About half the country still has arranged marriages so they are very interested and ask us if we have a "love marriage."

Well that's my take on things so far. We already have so many stories, but those will have to wait. Hopefully we can also upload some pictures soon. Derrick has promised to add his take on things later as well.